A: Yes, Snowbee was established in 1978 and is based in Plymouth, Devon. All product design, development, and testing are carried out by their team in the UK. The team serves all of Europe and the US from the Plymouth HQ.

Learn more about us

A: Snowbee products are designed and field-tested in the UK. Like most major tackle brands, primary manufacturing takes place in Asia-Pacific and in Europe, with quality control managed by our team in the UK.

A: Snowbee does not have a retail store, but we offer Click & Collect from our Plymouth warehouse (Mercator House, 22 Brest Road, PL6 5XP) for online orders. Or click here to view the map to your closest stockist of Snowbee products.

A: Delivery to the UK mainland is free on orders over £50. For orders under £50, standard shipping is £5.95, or £9.95 for long items over 1 metre.

View delivery information

A: Snowbee offers a 30-day return policy for a full refund or exchange on online purchases. Items must be in brand-new, unused condition with all original tags attached and intact packaging.

View return policy details

A: To return a product or arrange a repair, you must complete the Returns & Repairs form on the official Snowbee UK website before sending the item back. A customer care representative will then contact you with shipping instructions and a return reference.

Complete Returns & Repairs Form

A:

• Standard Returns/Exchanges: You are responsible for paying the return shipping costs.
• Faulty/ Incorrect Items: If an item is defective or sent by mistake, Snowbee will cover or reimburse the return delivery costs.

A: Yes. All products automatically come with a standard 1-year manufacturer’s guarantee against material or manufacturing defects.

A: Yes, provided you register your purchase on the Snowbee website within 30 days:

• Fly Rods: Original Purchaser Lifetime Guarantee.
• Fly Reels: 5-year warranty.
• Fishing Bags & Luggage: 2-year warranty.

A: The cost of a freshwater rod fishing license depends on the type of fish you plan to catch, the number of rods you use, and the duration of the license.

• Trout and coarse fish license: 1-day (£7.30), 8-day (£14.70), or 12-month (£36.80).
• Salmon and sea trout license: 1-day (£13.50), 8-day (£30.50), or 12-month (£93.10).
• Concessions: Senior citizens (65+), disabled anglers, and juniors (aged 13–16) are eligible for discounted or free annual licenses, while children under 13 do not require one.

Buy a fishing licence on GOV.UK

A: You can purchase a rod fishing license online through the official gov.uk website. Alternatively, you can buy one over the phone via the Environment Agency service line. Once purchased, your digital license or reference number allows you to fish immediately.

Buy your licence online

A: You can check the validity and details of your license by logging into the 'Find a rod fishing licence' service on the gov.uk website. You'll need to enter your personal details (such as your name, date of birth, and postcode) or your unique license reference number to view your active status.

A: No, you do not need a rod license to fish for sea fish from the shore, piers, or a boat around the UK coastline. However, if you are fishing in an estuary, tidal river, or targeting migratory species like salmon or sea trout that move between salt and fresh water, a rod license is legally required.

A: A fishing fly is an artificial lure designed to imitate aquatic insects, baitfish, terrestrial bugs, or other natural food sources that fish like. Unlike standard lures, fishing flies are crafted by hand by tying lightweight materials - such as feathers, animal fur, synthetic thread, or tinsel - onto a metal hook.

A: Fishing with flies relies on the weight of the specialised fly line to cast the virtually weightless pattern in range of the fish – anywhere from a few feet to around 150ft for very experienced fly casters. Tippet can also be tapered to help turn over flies to improve their presentation without spooking fish or creating tangles.

• The Cast: The angler uses a whip-like motion to cast the heavy line forward, which carries the lightweight fly out over the water.
• The Presentation: Flies are presented in two main ways depending on their design:
  • Dry Flies: Float on the surface of the water to mimic hatching or fallen insects.
  • Nymphs & Streamers: Sink beneath the surface - often referred to as 'wets' - to imitate underwater larvae, crustaceans, or swimming baitfish.
• The Drift Or Retrieve: Sometimes flies should be left static and allowed to drift in the current or sit in the surface of the water, sometimes, an angler will actively pull or retrieve the flies at vary speeds from very slow to ultra fast in order to provoke takes or just keep up with the flies in very fast currents. An experienced angler will vary their retrieve and drifts in order to match the conditions, species, depth and flies they are using.

Visit the Snowbee Blog for more guides

A: Tying a fishing fly (often called 'fly tying') involves whipping thread and natural features and furs or synthetic materials around a hook shank using specialised tools and silks.

• Secure the hook: Place the hook shank firmly into a fly-tying vise to keep it steady.
• Build the base: Wrap a tight layer of tying thread along the hook shank.
• Attach body materials: Lash down feathers, fur, or tinsel to create the tail, body, and legs/wings of the insect or baitfish.
• Finish the head: Build up a neat thread head behind the eye of the hook, tie it off using a whip-finishing knot, and apply a small dab of head cement to lock the threads in place.

A: Recreational fishing is broadly categorised by the techniques and gear used. The most common types include:

• Bait Fishing (Still / Bottom Fishing): Uses live or dead natural bait attached to a hook on a weighted line. Anglers drop the bait to the seabed or lake bed, suspend it under a float, or fish it directly on the surface, then wait for a fish to bite.
• Spinning & Lure Casting: Uses lightweight artificial lures - such as spinners, spoons or soft plastics - that are cast out and reeled in to imitate swimming prey.
• Fly Fishing: Uses a specialised, heavy fly line to cast lightweight, hand-tied artificial flies that mimic insects or small baitfish on or beneath the water's surface.
• Trolling: Involves trailing one or more baited lines or artificial lures behind a slowly moving boat to cover large areas of open water.
• Ice Fishing: Done in winter by drilling a hole through frozen bodies of water and dropping small jigs, lures, or live bait through the ice.

A: In England and Wales, the traditional coarse fishing closed season on rivers runs from March 15 to June 15 inclusive. This means the coarse fishing river season officially starts on June 16 and ends on March 14 of the following year. Trout fishing, on the other hand typically varies by venue rules but generally from Mid-March to October in the UK. There is currently no close season for fishing on the UK shoreline.

A: No, the national closed season applies specifically to rivers, streams, and canals. Most stillwaters - such as commercial lakes, reservoirs, and private ponds - are open for fishing year round, though individual fishery owners may enforce their own temporary rest periods.

A: Game fishing seasons differ from coarse fishing and vary by region and river system to protect spawning fish:

• Brown Trout: Typically runs from March 22/ April 1 to September 30 (exact dates depend on local bylaws).
• Salmon and Sea Trout: Generally opens between January 15 and April 1 and closes between September 30 and October 31, depending on the specific river catchment.

A: Yes, sea fishing from the shore, piers, beaches, or a boat is generally free in the UK, as you do not need a rod fishing license for saltwater angling. However, you must pay for access if you are fishing from a privately owned pier or harbour, and you must adhere to local council or port authority rules regarding where fishing is permitted.

A: Yes, you can keep fish for personal consumption, provided you follow size and species regulations:

• Minimum Conservation Sizes: Fish must meet Minimum Conservation Reference Sizes - for instance, sea bass must be at least 42cm, and cod must be at least 35cm to ensure they have had a chance to breed. Undersized fish must be returned to the water immediately.
• Bag Limits & Seasonal Closures: Certain high-pressure species have strict limits. For example, anglers may keep up to 3 sea bass per day outside of February and March (when it is catch-and-release only).

A: Sea fishing can be approached using three main techniques depending on your location:

• Beach/ Surfcasting: Uses long, powerful rods (12–15 ft) to cast heavy leads and baited rigs (e.g., lugworm, ragworm, or mackerel strips) past the breaking waves from sandy or shingle beaches.
• Pier & Rock Fishing: Involves dropping baited hooks or casting feather rigs directly into deeper water off harbour structures, piers, or rocky outcrops.
• Boat Fishing: Uses shorter, heavier boat rods to fish over offshore reefs, wrecks, or deep channels via bottom-bouncing baits, lures, or trolling.
• Fly Fishing: Typically using between #6-#9 9ft rods from the UK coastline. Mouths of estuaries, sand bars to rocky gulleys can provide varying species to catch with the fly. Floating to fast sinking lines with bait fish patterns or shrimp imitations can work particularly well.

A: The best time depends on tides, light conditions, and seasons:

• Tides: The 2 hours before and 2 hours after high tide are typically the most productive, as incoming waters bring fish closer to shore to feed.
• Time of Day: Early morning (dawn) and dusk are prime times, as fish feel safer moving into shallow water under low light. Fishing at night can also yield larger species like cod, bass, and rays close to the shore.
• Seasons: Summer brings species like mackerel, bass, garfish, and wrasse, while winter is best for species like cod, whiting, and flounder.

A: We can fully understand the confusion on this subject, as it is a bit of a minefield. "Breathable" has become a bit of a generic term which is now commonly used to describe any material which allows just about anything to pass through - including wind! It's no wonder consumers get confused. Let's ignore garments such as underwear and fleece, which are often loosely described as "breathable" and stick to what the term "breathable" was really intended for - waterproof garments.

Anyone who remembers the early days of PVC Waders & PVC coated fabrics used in waterproofs will also remember the horrendous condensation problems associated with them. You often wondered whether you would have been drier without the waterproofs on! True Breathable fabrics have been about for almost 30 years, since Gore-Tex first appeared on the market in 1976. Since then many manufacturers have produced similar fabrics with breathable membranes and the popularity of breathable clothing and waders has grown tremendously.

When it comes to clothing or waders they may be breathable and waterproof. In this situation, to maintain the integrity of such products it is important they are looked after properly. Whether waders or clothing, once used and wet, it is important that before storage, any garments are well cleaned, dried and then stored in a dry place. If put away damp or kept in a damp (even warm) environment this can encourage microbial activity which can start to break down the effective micropore system. If this should happen and not excessive, the integrity can be largely if not completely restored, using a simple 're-proofing' agent and there are many to choose from on the market. It can be a useful exercise to re-proof now and again anyway, to maintain optimum water resistance in all conditions and aid clothing longevity. Most waterproof garments have a Fluorocarbon type DWR ( Durable Water Resistant) finish, which provides a very fine Hydrophobic treatment and helps fibres resist and repel water. Instructions with these agents will advise how best applied.

The secret of Breathable fabrics is the membrane. The most common form is a TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane) membrane, which is either coated onto the inside of the outer fabric, as in cheaper materials, or laminated to the fabric, in better quality materials. The idea behind breathable fabrics is to keep out rain and protect the inner layers from chilling winds, whilst allowing the free transfer of moisture out through the breathable membrane. The aim is to keep you Cool and Dry in hot, humid conditions or Warm and Dry in cold, wet conditions.

These two opposites pose different problems for the material technologist. Staying dry, is not just about keeping the rain out.

It is also important to wick moisture quickly away from the skin to avoid evaporation, which lowers body core temperature. By using combinations of a high wicking inner-layer and fleece mid-layer, it is possible to keep both warm and dry just about anywhere. For breathable materials to work efficiently therefore, the under "wicking" garment layers are just as important as the outer layer.

A: The key to the enhanced performance of breathable materials is in their advanced inner membrane - most commonly TPU (Thermoplastic Polyurethane). This microporous laminate is a Hydrophilic membrane, the structure of which allows moisture to be wicked away from the body and transferred through the fabric to the outside in the evaporated state. The micro-pores in the TPU laminate are large enough to allow moisture vapour (perspiration) out, but far too small to allow water molecules in, making the fabric totally waterproof.

As you warm up inside the garment, the air inside becomes hot and humid, relative to that outside. This raises the vapour pressure inside which forces moisture, in the form of perspiration and condensation, through the PU Breathable membrane, leaving you cool and dry.

A: Before you buy, the MOST important factor to consider is the material specification. Not all Breathable materials are the same.

The performance of Breathable materials is measured in 2 ways.

• Breathability - measured in grams of moisture which can pass through the material per m2 per 24 hrs.
• Waterproofness - measured as the Hydrostatic water pressure the material can withstand - given as the "head" of water, in mm.

Many manufacturers use inferior materials, in order to keep prices down. These may look the same, but performance differences soon become apparent, as many anglers find out to their cost. Put quite simply, if you are generating more moisture inside the garment, than the breathable membrane can transfer, you will still get damp!

The figures can differ greatly for different brands of clothing, but as a general rule, look for Jackets & Trousers with a minimum breathability of around 5000 g/m2/24 hrs and a Hydrostatic Water pressure resistance of around 5000 mm. For Breathable Waders, the Hydrostatic Water pressure is the most important, so look for a minimum breathability of around 3000 g/m2/24 hrs and a Hydrostatic Water pressure resistance of at least 10,000 mm.

Snowbee, use only the best materials available, able to withstand a Hydrostatic pressure of up to 20,000mm on our top range Breathable Waders - three times more waterproof than some of the cheaper brands.

We are proud of the quality of materials we use and always publish all our material specifications in our catalogue. See how many of our competitors do the same and ask yourself what they have to hide.

A: Smoking is one of the tastiest and healthiest ways of enjoying fish and offers an alternative to the usual cooking methods.

If using a Snowbee Smoker for the first time, a few simple pointers:

Firstly 2 important items, which may seem obvious -

1. Before use remove the Blue Polythene film protection from the smoker trays. This is to prevent damage in transit and must be removed before use. We did have one customer who complained that his stainless smoker had turned black and sticky after the first use!
2. DO NOT use the smoker indoors, unless you plan to re-decorate in the near future!

The Snowbee Smoker is a "Hot" Smoker, which smokes and cooks at the same time. This process is completely different to that used on Salmon, which is a "Cold" smoking technique, which smokes, but does not cook the fish. It is important therefore to ensure sufficient time in the smoker to thoroughly cook the fish or meat.

With regards the Meths' burners, we suggest that you fill these about ½ full, which gives around 20 - 25 minutes burning time; sufficient for most smokings. This can obviously be reduced, for small fish or fillets.

In practice, we have found this quite sufficient for 3 or 4 small fish (3/4 - 1 lb), gutted, but left whole, with head and tail on. For larger fish, in the 2 - 3 lb size, it is normally necessary to head and tail them, simply to fit them into the smoker. It also helps to split them along the backbone and open them up, like a butterfly fillet, to allow the smoke and heat to penetrate.

With larger fish, it pays to fillet them, or cut them into steaks, otherwise repeated meths burner top-ups are required and by the time the fish is cooked, it is often over-smoked, with a rather pungent flavour.

As with any cooking method, it is to some extent a matter of personal taste and so a degree of "trial & error" is necessary to determine what suits you. Some people like a strong smoke taste, whilst others prefer a lighter smoking. This can be regulated by the amount of Chippings you put in the smoker, but for general purposes we find that a good layer, sufficient to cover the bottom of the recessed tray works well for most applications. The English Oak Dust we supply have proved to be an excellent all-round choice.

One of the most important aspects of smoking, particularly with fish, is the salt treatment beforehand, as this draws fluids from the cells of the fish by osmosis, which is then reversed during the cooking process, allowing the smoke flavour to penetrate the flesh. This can be achieved by either sprinkling the fish quite heavily with salt, or leaving the fish in a strong brine solution for about an hour. Either method will achieve the same result and again it is down to personal preference.

After brining, dry the fish as thoroughly as you can with kitchen towel, until it is tacky to the touch.

When it comes to smoking meats and poultry, the above instructions still apply, but it must be borne in mind that meats take a lot more cooking than fish, which actually begins cooking at temperatures as low as 30 degrees Celsius! This is particularly important with Chicken to ensure it is cooked through to the bone and either removing the flesh from the bone or cutting into smaller joints allows the heat to penetrate more easily.

With regards Cheese, I have only attempted this once, with rather disastrous results. I placed a large block of cheddar on a saucer in the smoker and came back to find a congealed puddle of once molten cheese! I can only conclude that commercial smokers use a Cold Smoking technique for cheese!

We hope the above is of some practical help, but should you have any other queries, please do not hesitate to contact us. We are hoping to publish some of our favourite recipes on this page soon, but if anyone has any they would like to share, by all means please send them in.

Happy Smoking!